As you turn it down, that resistance drops eventually to 0, allowing the signal to ground. When the Tone pot is at 10, it has the full 500K or whatever resistance in series with the capacitor. This is the same thing as the Capacitor acting like a frequency filter. So the resistance of the pot acts like its own frequency filter. If they did, we wouldn't have things like "Treble bleeds" on volume pots and such. Here's why: We all know that pots don't cut/block all frequencies equally. If THAT is the case, then you have to decide whether that change is something you want to do and whether you like the way your tone pots operate like that. Now, with that being said, there IS a tonal difference between having the tone pot BEFORE the capacitor (the cap goes to ground and you have a separate wire going to the volume pot) VS having the tone pot AFTER the capacitor (as in most Gibson Les Pauls, SGs, etc.). You guys put so much faith in wiring diagrams on the internet, but have you even ONCE looked at it from an electrical/mechanical standpoint to see if doing it will make ANY lick of difference? You're making them do extra work they don't need to do.steps with a hot soldering iron.steps that could lead to damaging wires or components if they're not super-duper careful.Īgain, STOP TELLING PEOPLE TO DO STUFF THEY DON'T NEED TO DO. When someone's asking you for help on an EXISTING WIRING SETUP, talking about changing it from modern to '50s, quit telling them to do soldering steps that make absolutely no difference. '50s Wiring and Modern Wiring differ not in how the Tone pot is wired up, BUT IN HOW THE VOLUME POT IS WIRED UP. The difference between Modern and '50s Wiring is that you connect the capacitor NOT to the pickup lug (bottom) on the volume pot, but to the switch lug (middle). ![]() LEAVE the cap on the center lug and bend the right lug back to ground. YOU DON'T NEED TO CHANGE THE LUGS ON THE TONE POT TO DO '50s WIRING. I'll say it again, this time for those of you who don't believe me. '50s wiring DOES NOT REQUIRE YOU TO CHANGE THE TONE POT'S WIRING. ![]() Ok, everybody, take a moment to read this post carefully. Only difference is I ground the caps to the back of the volume pots instead of the tone pots (which makes no difference). That's actually the wiring scheme I use, on my Studio Deluxe with 4 conductor pickups and 2 push pulls (came with that wiring scheme actually) and on my Traditional plus with 2 conductor pickups. That PDF link from SD is the same as the picture you posted, isn't it? Then, ground the bare & green wires and solder together and tape the red and white wires like that picture shows. In other words, just treat the black wire as the hot wire from the pickups just like you would for 2 conductor 50s wiring. Just wire it up like that SD picture you posted, except get rid of the wire connecting the bottom (left side in that picture) lugs of the vol and tone pots and switch the caps to the middle to bottom lug on the tone pots and connect them to the middle lug on the volume pots. ![]() As far as I can see (not an expert) you should be able to wire 50s without a problem with your 4 conductor pickups.
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